Are you ready?! It’s time to make the snowflake appear!
Starting with Row 1 and working vertically, join Blocks 1,2,3 and 4 together. Press following the arrows (in my case it was down). Leave the label at the top of the row on (Block 1), but the other tags can be taken off.
Continue to join the vertical rows together – Blocks 5, 6, 7 and 8. Press (in my case it is up).
Continue joining the blocks in vertical rows.
Start joining the vertical rows together – 1-4 sewn to 5-8; 9-12 to 13 – 16 then add 17 – 20; now join the right half to the left half.
DONE! Stand back and admire! Great work.
Backing – If you are piecing a backing, you will need 3.5m cut into 2 pieces (each approx. 70 x 42”)
Trim off the selvage with the writing on one of those pieces and then trim off the selvage without the writing from the second piece. Those are the edges to be sewn together.
Wide backing is 108” wide and this quilt requires 1.75m of wide back. This allows an additional 10” for the long arm quilter if you are using those services.
Binding - .5m – cut into 7 2 ½” strips. Join together using a diagonal seam and press those seams open. Fold strip in half with wrong sides together and press. Binding can be applied to either the front and then hand stitched on the back, or apply to the back and bring around to the front and stitch by machine.
This is your last week - Congratulations! Hopefully you've had fun.
Your Snowflake quilt is almost complete. Please send me a picture of your completed quilt top by September 30th for a chance to win one of two gift certificates - $50 or $25.
I was hooked making these blocks and I couldn’t stop until all 20 were made. This week you can just continue to make the rest of the blocks. Watch your pressing (have I stressed this enough yet?!) If you are unsure, check the row on the block sitting beside or above to make sure you are following the same pattern, the idea is for all seams to butt into each other.
You may find repressing a half square triangle seam so it sits towards the light fabric is better. This is particularly good when the half square triangles sit beside each other. The bulk seams are reduced and the block will sit flatter.
Continue working on the remainder of the blocks for this session. You will have 20 completed blocks.
Time to make more blocks! Let’s work on blocks 6, 8 and 9. They are essentially the same as the blocks we made last time, except we are inserting our white or snowflake fabric. If you are using various whites for the snowflake, continue pressing as above paying attention to the arrow for the first row (either left or right) of the block and the final pressing (either up or down). This should ensure all seams nest when starting to put all the blocks together.
For those of us using a single fabric for the snowflake, you will have cut B rectangles. These will be used when making Block 6 and Block 8. The pressing will continue to be the same as the other blocks.
Block 7 – This block and subsequent blocks will be using the ½ square triangle blocks you squared up in our last lesson. You have a variety of these blocks so make sure you scatter them as equally as possible. There are no leftovers!
I find it easier to construct the remaining blocks by laying each one out one at a time and working on just that block. It also helps to have the block you have already made above and beside it. This ensures you are not repeating colours sitting side by side as well as your triangle units will be different too.
In this picture, I have Block 3 to the left and Block 6 above ready to work on Block 7.
Refer to the 1 or 4 colour block to determine which size of white or snowflake fabric is to be used to replace the scrappy white 3 ½” squares. Pressing becomes a bit more thoughtful, but you will continue to work in rows as much as possible.
I make sure I put my label on each block (somewhere along the top row) to make it easier to find. These blocks get pulled out as I need to refer to a previous block for colour placement while building the new block.
Work up to Block 12 this week. Here are my blocks, send me a picture of yours – I’d love to see how the colours are coming together!
It’s time to sew block units! We will be starting by making Blocks 1,2,3,4 and 5. These blocks are all the same blocks, 24 3 ½” squares in each unit. Pressing will be very important for this lesson as it is critical for the blocks to lay flat and prevent seams from getting too bulky. Of course, pressing seams open is an option, but I prefer to press to one side making it easier to butt seams together. Choose whichever method you prefer.
Start by randomly piecing blocks in pairs – you will need 60 pairs. Once the pairs have been sewn, join two pairs together to make a row of 4 squares. Press in one direction. Now to build the blocks.
The first row of each block is to be pressed to the right. Once the first row has been established, the other rows can be flipped to have the seams pressed in opposite directions.
Make 5 blocks – Assemble the six rows within each block - all blocks should have the seams pressed in the same direction. Blocks 1, 2, 3, & 4 seams should be pressed up. Block 5 seams should be pressed down. Label each of the blocks using the label sheet I have included. Note the pressing direction for each Block (either Up or down).
Make ½ square triangle units. Using the 4” snowflake fabric - hopefully you’ve already drawn a diagonal line on the wrong side! – if not, go ahead and do this now.
With right sides together, match a blue 4” square with the 4” snowflake material. Stitch ¼” on each side of the diagonal line. I try to make it a bit less than a true ¼” seam, but there is still a bit of wiggle room so don’t sweat this too much!
Chaining the blocks saves time!
Clip the blocks apart or use the handy Cutting Gizmo!
Using the rotary cutter, cut on the diagonal line and press towards the blue fabric.
Square the blocks to 3 ½” using the Tucker Trimmer. You should have made 70 half square triangles in a variety of blue and white colours.
Okay, you’ve worked extra hard this session! Take a break and get ready to make more blocks next time.
You will need the pattern Snowflake by Modern Handcraft. It is available for purchase on our website, or download directly from the Modern Handcraft website. She also has downloads to make it easier for cutting your background fabrics as well as the version for one colour or 4 colour fabric options. The web addresses for these downloads are in the pattern.
I love the label download (particularly for the 1 and 4 colour option) as this just makes it easier to keep track of all those pieces you have cut. For those of you who have not received your pattern yet here is the link http://bit.ly/2kypGYM
Let’s get started. I am making the scrappy version and if you purchased our kit, you will find 15 - 0.25m pieces in the kit along with the background fabric.
We are going to start with the 15 pieces and start cutting those into strips and then squares. I love using my Stripology ruler for this as it makes quick work of the cutting and keeps the blocks an accurate size.
TIP: If you haven't used the stripology ruler, watch Gudrun, the designer of the ruler, demonstrate how to use it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eFZLyjR9j84
Make sure you have pressed your fabric and folded it once keeping the selvage edges straight and then fold again ensuring there are no ripples or tucks. Line the Stripology ruler so the vertical 0 line is just over the edge of your fabric. The horizontal line should be along the edge of your selvage. Cut through the 0 slot, then without moving the Stripology ruler, cut at the 4” slot and again at the 7 ½” slot.
Repeat with all the blue fabrics.
You should have one 4” strip and one 3 ½” strip from each of the blue pieces. From each of the 4” strips cut 2 - 4” squares. Choose 6 more strips and cut one more 4” square from each of those strips. (total 36 - 4” squares)
Trim the remainder of the strips down to 3½”. Cut 3½” squares from the remainder of the strip and continue cutting 3½” squares from the 3½” strip of each colour. A total of 299 squares will be used, you will have a few more as I hate to count over 50! However, I have done the math, and you will have more than enough! Here’s the math for the shape cut – 0 3 ½ 7 10 ½ 14 17 ½
Cutting the white or the snowflake fabric: At this point you have a choice of making your snowflake from all different white 3 ½” squares (follow scrappy snowflake fabric cutting), or you can cut larger pieces as shown in the 1 and 4 colour option. For my quilt and those who have our kits, follow the directions for cutting the white snowflake fabric as listed in the 1 colour or 4 colour version. Just a hint though, start by cutting the larger pieces first (H, G and F) and then work on the 4” squares and then E, B and A as this will be the most economical – although there is plenty of fabric in the kit, I just hate wasting strips! I love using the labels to keep track of my cutting!
Okay, we’ve done the cutting – that is a lot of work. Next time we will tackle some of the sewing. Stay organized and make sure you have your ¼” foot attached. I use Aurifil thread to piece as my seams lay nice and flat after pressing. Best Press is also recommended for the next session so make sure yours is handy!
While you wait for the next installment, start drawing one diagonal line on each of the 4” snowflake fabric squares. Using a frixion pen is wonderful as it will disappear after you iron your block!
Lesson 2 - August 22nd